Don’t take away my blogging license, but I’ve never done travel writing. I've never ventured far, but earlier this year, I booked (pun intended) a once-in-a-lifetime vacation to Europe, a trip that was only possible because I’d sold my house and could be (safely) financially irresponsible.
In twenty days, my partner and I visited three countries—sounds like a lush, Instagram-worthy #couplegoals trip, right? I won’t lie: it was a fun adventure with bookish activities and fantastic weather, but I’m not sharing these experiences to cause FOMO or promote an unachievable holiday. Let’s keep it real, shall we?
The day before we left, I canceled my only method of payment because of fraudulent charges. On our first night, I was convinced we’d overslept, but it had only been two hours (it was 10:00 pm, not 10:00 am)! Then, I rolled my ankle on our first day in Europe—but do you know what else I ended up rolling on vacation? A third suitcase so I could bring 31 new books back to Canada!
Set your expectations to realistic as I tell you about all the bookish activities I did in London, Edinburgh, and Paris.
My Time In London, England:
Londonbookshops.org maps/lists bookshops in London, and if I’d had this resource during the planning stages, I would have gone mad with ambition... and maybe even bankrupt.
During our nine days in London, we visited four shops from the website, but those weren’t the only book-ish activities we experienced!
South Kensington Books
This modestly sized, independent bookshop is located in an idyllic area, surrounded by cafes and restaurants, and has been at this site since the 1940s, which is a fascinating fact about a store with an entertaining history section.
History sections bore me – it’s typically military strategy or old white men on the covers, so I usually avoid them. However, in South Kensington Books, I discovered a selection on Gods, Goddesses, and mythology. As a fan of Percy Jacksonand Madeline Miller, these books immediately grabbed my attention. This section was also right next to their small YA collection, and I couldn't get enough of the books on display.
In an alternate universe, we spent the day browsing (they sell special/signed editions!) before taking our purchases to one of the nearby establishments for a drink, something sweet to eat, and a relaxing afternoon of reading.
Purchases:
Venus & Aphrodite: History of a Goddess by Bettany Hughes
The Princess and the Prick: Fairy Tales for Feminists by Walburga Appleseed
Total: £9.99 ($18.38 CAD)
Booksellers Row
Cecil Court, also known as Bookseller’s Row, was a highly anticipated stop for us, but despite triple-checking business hours, many of the shops weren’t open when we got there.
Watkins, the oldest esoteric bookstore in the heart of London, was visibly busy (and not our friends’ cup of tea), so we went straight to the reason we wanted to go to Cecil Court to begin with: Goldsboro Books, the UK’s leading specialist in signed first editions.
Book box subscribers would consider this shop (which has another location in Brighton) a priority stop, and it deserves the hype! I was overwhelmed by the availability of signed first editions (which were numbered, giving them a little extra something) with stenciled or sprayed edges on the shelves.
Remember, we’re being realistic: if an in-person visit to Cecil Court or Goldsboro’s Brighton location isn’t possible, they offer international delivery!
Purchases (signed first editions):
The Palace of Eros by Caro De Robertis
The Puzzle Wood by Rosie Andrews
House of Marionne by J. Elle
Shadows of Perl by J. Elle
Total: £129.98 ($239.16 CAD)
Third Man Records
In the basement of Third Man Records resides The Literarium: A Novel Serendipity Machine —the second of its kind (the first is located in Toronto, Ontario). Buy two tokens for £7 and head to the blue basement to try your luck at an exclusive randomized chapbook (published by Third Man Records).
There are several videos of us failing to get the machine to accept our tokens before a team member checked on us and provided some tips. We were told that the machine can be quirky, and sometimes an aggressive insert is needed. My partner found success by putting a little spin on each token.
The Literarium could potentially provide poetry, an anonymous manifesto, a collection of short stories, or the opening chapter of an unreleased book, but what we ended up getting was:
Solo Driver Recording based on one unedited 19-minute, 26-second-long recording of Alison Mosshart talking in the car on the morning of December 2, 2020
John Rechy interviewed by Jon Savage
Total: *£7 ($12.88 CAD)
*We visited with friends; I only paid for one set of tokens.
The Poetry Pharmacy
When I read poetry, every word feels like it gets branded on my soul. I’ve spent years reading a single book of poetry because I need to savor every line, and that's why a visit to The Poetry Pharmacy, located inside the LUSH on Oxford Street, was a vital part of my holiday.
This place offers walk-in prescriptions, among other services, to address every emotional ailment, as well as virtual consultations (and in-person consultations at their Bishop’s Castle location).
Our visit coincided with William Shakespeare’s birthday, so I had to buy Poetical Poison Pills: Shakespearean Curses in addition to Tortured Poet Pills and a First Aid Kit for Writer’s Block. The highlight of the experience was receiving a prescription for insomnia pills at the checkout.
So far, I’ve opened one Tortured Poet capsule (Because I’m my mother’s son, I leave the arrow in my throbbing heart. What kills keeps me alive. I forgive nothing, forget nothing. Revenge, no matter how or when, is my only satisfaction.- Paul Tran) and one Shakespearean Curse… Thought I was tempted to use my First Aid Kit while writing this article.
Total: £67.80 ($124.75 CAD)
Waterstones Piccadilly
This is Europe’s largest bookshop spanning six floors with over eight miles of shelves. Sounds like heaven for a book owl, right? Not for me since I (controversially) don’t like large bookstores. With so much to see there's never enough time, and I always feel like I’ve forgotten something when I leave.
I missed out on an entire floor of this store and have been haunted by the thought that I’ve missed finding a new favourite book. At least I got a new tote bag right?
Purchases:
The Night Circus by Erin Morgenstern
It Happened One Summer by Tessa Bailey (with stenciled edges)
Total: £36.97 ($68.02 CAD)
Southbank Book Market
It was a gorgeous sunny day at Southbank Book Market, but I’m afraid I’m about to be controversial again. I adored the atmosphere and had fun, but I don’t think anyone should be disappointed if they don’t go.
The nearby art and film-related items stood out more than the book selection. Ultimately, I saved my budget and didn’t buy anything. The chocolate-covered strawberries, however, were divine.
Word on the Water
In 2015, Word on the Water went from moving regularly due to canal regulations to having permanent mooring in the King’s Cross area. We had gorgeous weather for the walk, but in addition to the sunshine, there was also wind.
Word on the Water is a book aesthetic dreamboat, but all its bobbing up and down made me immediately queasy. I was in my YOLO era, so I made myself board the boat to browse (clinging to the walls/shelves and sitting frequently). To compensate for emotional trauma, I made sure I left with a book.
Purchase:
Normal People by Sally Rooney
Total: £10 ($18.40 CAD)
Bonus: Our Visit To Pooh Corner In Hartfield
Winnie the Pooh was a staple of my childhood: I loved the books, watched the movies/show on repeat, and collected memorabilia (shoutout to lantern Eeyore for guiding me at night; you were a proper mate).
I discovered Pooh Corner, a Winnie the Pooh museum/cafe situated on the edge of the Ashdown Forest (the inspiration for the Hundred Acre Wood), through Instagram. My partner insisted we fit a day trip into our itinerary.
We booked a two-night stay at The Bear Inn, which features character-themed rooms (we had the adorable Kanga room), and made the most of one day in Pooh Country, starting with an afternoon tea at Pooh Corner, surrounded by illustrations and memorabilia.
Following our tea, we browsed the museum and gift shop, where we bought a soft Eeyore, a postcard, and a map for a hike to the Pooh sites in the Ashdown Forest.
We found sticks on our hike for Poohsticks Bridge (to play the game, you and a friend drop your sticks at the same time on one side of the bridge and race to see which stick appears on the other side first—I won). We also visited Pooh’s house on our way to the bridge, as well as Piglet and Owl’s house after our game. Since we didn’t drive, we didn’t get to see all of the Pooh Sites in Ashdown Forest, but I’d love to visit again one day.
My Time In Paris, France:
We spent two days in Paris and disappointed friends, family, and one tour guide by not visiting the Eiffel Tower... We decided to go to some bookstores instead...
Librairie Galignani
This was the first English bookstore in the area when it opened in 1801, and in 1856, it relocated to its current address. I was moved by the history of the shop and in awe of how the medium-sized space utilized tall shelves and rolling ladders to showcase its impressive collection of books.
The English books were at the back of the shop, where a narrow staircase led to a bird’s-eye view of the store. I was enamoured with the beautiful editions, some featuring stenciled edges, on display, and I couldn’t believe my luck when I found the illustrated anniversary edition of The Invisible Life of Addie LaRue! If not for luggage weight restrictions, I could have easily picked up seven more books.
Purchases:
The Invisible Life of Addie LaRue by V.E. Schwab
Odd Spirits by S.T. Gibson
Total: €54.8 ($85.49 CAD)
Shakespeare and Company
I only line up at bookstores for midnight releases, but it’s a common occurrence outside the small 17th-century building housing Shakespeare and Company.
I loved the signage about not taking photos or videos in the shop so that you can be present in the moment, and hated the people who didn’t abide by the spirit of the space.
The main floor is an eclectic mix of decor and displays, and it felt like magic getting turned around in such a small space. Upstairs is a reading area with typewriters and even more quirky decor. I enjoyed my time browsing, but didn’t fall in love with anything.
My Time In Edinburgh, Scotland:
Before I tell you more about the store I visited that only sells romance books, I did a lot of other really cool book-related things during our five-day stay that I’d like to share with you.
Blackwell’s
According to the in-store poster, Blackwell’s is Edinburgh’s oldest bookshop, having sold books from their shop on South Bridge since 1848. When I noticed Blackwell’s on a return trip to the hotel, I didn’t realize it was a large multi-floor shop (in which I ended up getting lost three times).
We popped in shortly before it closed, creating a time crunch for browsing, which was stressful since there were so many signed and special edition books to explore!
I wish we’d arrived earlier for a leisurely browse and to take advantage of the adorable window seats on the upper floor. That way, I could have taken my time to consider my book budget and wouldn’t have had to leave so many signed editions behind.
Purchases:
The River Has Roots by Amal El-Mohtar (signed)
Invisible Strings: 113 Poets Respond to the Songs of Taylor Swift
Everything is Tuberculosis by John Green (signed)
Lost in the Garden by Adam S. Leslie (signed)
Circe by Madeline Miller (anniversary edition)
Total: £100.97 ($185.78 CAD)
Topping and Company
What book owl wouldn’t love to be paid to provide tea/coffee, biscuits, and book recommendations to readers? This is one of the services that Topping and Company, an independent bookshop that sells signed first editions, offers, and I just had to try it out. I pre-ordered a £60 voucher and emailed the shop with a list of books I’ve enjoyed so they had everything they needed for my visit.
In my email, I mentioned Emily Henry, Tracy Deonn’s Legendborn Cycle, Maggie Stiefvater’s The Raven Cycle, The Courting of Bristol Keatsby Mary E. Pearson, You Will Never Be Meby Jesse Q. Sutanto, and Book of Nightby Holly Black.
On the day, we arrived early to browse the store (it was so big that I got lost five times), where I finally gave in and tried a rolling ladder before checking in for tea with a bookseller. When seated, I was given books to sort into piles of what I’d read, authors I’ve read, and what was new to me.
I’d read three of the books (Ninth Houseby Leigh Bardugo, City of Bonesby Cassandra Clare, and a Rainbow Rowell book), had a stack of books by authors I knew (Kalynn Bayron, Laini Taylor, Abby Jimenez, Ali Hazelwood) and some books like The Flatshareby Beth O’Leary, and White Rabbit, Red Wolfby Tom Pollock were brand new to me. After eliminating what I’d read, we discussed the authors and books I was less familiar with, and how they were similar to the books mentioned in my email.
Before leaving me to deliberate, the bookseller asked if there was anything I was looking for, and truthfully, I’d been looking for a special edition of Winnie the Pooh. I’d hoped to find something at Pooh Corner, but was unsuccessful. At Blackwell’s, I found a collection, but it was wrapped in plastic. Topping and Company happily unwrapped their copy for me to look over, and I fell in love. It was exactly what I’ve been waiting years to find! Due to its size, we officially had to buy a new suitcase (and then I packed it in my carry-on).
As part of booking a Coffee/Tea with a Bookseller experience, I received a Topping and Company tote, which I gave to my best friend, as Topping is her maiden name.
Purchases:
Blood Like Magic by Liselle Sambury
Iris Kelly Doesn’t Date by Ashley Herring Blake
Illuminae by Amie Kaufman and Jay Kristoff
The Girls I’ve Been by Tess Sharpe
Winnie the Pooh: The Complete Collection of Stories and Poems by A. A. Milne (Author) and E. H. Shepard (Illustrator)
Total: £88.96 ($163.89 CAD)
Book Lovers Bookshop
This is the UK's first brick-and-mortar romance bookstore, offering totes, keychains, and stickers with purchases, in addition to its extensive book selection.
It's truly an adorable shop! The quaint space is bright and airy, offering a selection of books grouped in romance subgenres with a discounted area (where you'll find slightly damaged products) and Blind Date with a Book options.
I wish my friends from the Nest could have been there with me, but my partner willingly stepped into the role of enabler. Luckily for him, I was a little under the weather, so we didn't spend our entire day debating how many books to get—and he was supportive of getting a new tote and keychain.
Purchases:
Blind Date with a Book (Story of My Life by Lucy Score)
The Flatshare by Beth O’Leary
When Grumpy Met Sunshine by Charlotte Stein
Silver Elite by Dani Francis
Alone with You in the Ether by Olivie Blake
Total: £80.93 ($148.91 CAD)
Afternoon Tea at the Signet Library
The aesthetic? Romantic. The atmosphere? Scholarly. The vibes? Phenomenal. The food? Top tier, unbeatable, hit after hit, every bite a revelation.
My partner thought about proposing on this trip, and this would have been the perfect place to do it. This is the FOMO-inducing, #goals portion of the trip, hands down. I can hardly put it into words; it was pure magic.
Total: £67.80 ($124.75 CAD)
There was a lot of pressure when planning this trip, as it might be the only time I get to go to Europe. However, when we finally arrived, I was open to being flexible and realistic with my time, and I think that might be the key to a successful vacation.
The original London itinerary had 22 bookish stops (mostly bookstores), but we only managed to visit eight (not mentioned in this article: stopping at Foyles near South Bank on a rare Jellycat quest). On the other hand, our Paris itinerary didn't initially include any bookish stops—we had planned to spend an entire day at the Louvre, but three hours was more than enough (and we intentionally didn't go see the Mona Lisa), which left us with an afternoon for browsing bookstores.
I was getting burnt out on vacation planning, and my partner craved a more relaxing and flexible approach, so we made minimal pre-bookings for Edinburgh. Afternoon tea at the Signet Library was actually a last-minute decision—they were taking additional bookings on a day they'd usually be closed, so we really lucked out! If we'd booked as much in advance as we did for London, we might have missed out on visiting Blackwell's.
My advice for your next bookish holiday is this: be prepared, have options, but also be ready to go with the flow. You might end up with a third suitcase, 31 new books, and a thousand unforgettable moments with the people you love.
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